Porcupine Puffer

The Volitans Lionfish and our new friend have expired, less than a week after Smiley, a Porcupine Puffer, was added to the tank. Hard lesson reinforcing the need for quarantine.

This tank is currently fallow and being treated with Chloroquine Phosphate concurrent with the treatment of the 300 Gallon Reef.

Subject: Chloroquine Phosphate and treating Display Tank

(WWM Comments in Blue)

Hi Bob and Crew -
<Kevin>
I spend at least 8-10 hours per week reading on your site and absolutely love and appreciate all of the great advice. I have only been in the hobby for about 6 months and already have a 300 Gallon Reef, a 60 Gallon FOWLR, and a 34 Gallon Species with a Carpet Anemone and one False Percula. You helped me identify a Nudibranch about a month ago and I have since invested in another 30 gallon tank for quarantine and treatment.

However, like many of your readers, I was devastatingly delinquent in adding the quarantine tank. So, today I write you regarding my 300 Gallon Reef System. I have spend many hours reading on your site about Crypto and other parasites and have recently added a Powder Blue Tang from my 60 Gallon to the 300 Gallon reef system. A week later, I lost my Puffer and Volitans Lion in the 60 gallon tank to Ich. Now, the Powder Blue Tang is showing signs of Ich and has evidently spread the love. My 5″ Foxface Lo is also exhibiting signs of ‘Black Ich’.

<This, as you likely are aware, is not “that” deleterious>
I know that the drill is to capture and treat all of the fish. This is not possible in this tank. Even if I were to remove all the rock, many of the fishes would hide in the substrate,

<Mmm, they can be sand-sifted out>
etc. However, last night I ran across a post where I inferred that treating the display tank is better than nothing at all. I am afraid that this will be my only option. So, my plan is as follows:

1) Remove all of my Coral and place in a large quarantine tank
2) I have ordered Chloroquine Phosphate based on recommendation by WWM and the book “The Marine Fish Health & Feeding Handbook” This is truly the least lethal medication for the fish and the best for a display, right?

<Currently likely the most useful for Protozoans, including Amyloodinium>
3) I will remove as many of my snails and crabs as possible

<Mmm… this antimalarial (Aralen) is quite toxic to a range of invertebrates… and there are, assuredly, a huge mix of these in and about your rock, substrate… These may be killed (along with any algae), resulting in a toxic cascade effect… Again, it would be much BETTER to remove the fishes, treat them elsewhere>

4) I will treat the display tank for 10 days with 40mg per gallon of Chloroquine Phosphate

My question is, at the end of this treatment, assuming all of the fish look fine:
1) How long do I wait to add the coral and inverts back
<Three weeks or so>
2) Do I change 50% water and add carbon to rid the Chloroquine? Is this sufficient?
<Activated carbon and Polyfilter should do it>
3) I believe that I have read in several places that the necessary bacteria should not be affected by this treatment, is this still your experience?
<Yes… however… the above reference…>
Is there anything that I have overlooked that may cause me problems either immediately; or, long term?
<Turn off your skimmer, and UV, remove any other chemical filtrants…>
Thank you very much for all of your help!
- Kevin
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

I left out my water parameters, etc:
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate less than 5
SG 1.027
PH 8.3
<These are fine. I’d like to add the possibility of your delivering the CP via foods… One formula calls for 3.7 grams of CP dissolved in a gel powder mix of 300 grams… this mixed with water, foods… less toxic to non-targeted “other” life. BobF>