In researching the best possible treatment for the tanks parasitic infestation, Bob Goemans has been kind enough to offer his advice to my specific situation:

My text is below and his suggestions are in blue:

Hi Bob -

Thank you for your quick response. I am treating my 300 gallon reef for ich. I cannot catch all of the fish as some of them scurry through the sand when I try. So, I am quarantining the invertebrates and treating the DT. I have the book referenced below and am prepared, with the powder, to treat at 40mg/gallon (12 grams for the 300 Gallon Tank) for 10 days. My questions are primarily related to what to do at the end of 10 days, such as using water changes and/or carbon to remove the chemical. And, how soon may I add the coral back?

Thanks again for your great efforts in the hobby!

- Kevin

Hi Kevin,
There is a treatment mentioned in the book that has allowed leaving the inverts in the aquarium. Have you read that?

As for treatment, maintain proper specific gravity (1.024 – 26) and recommend an initial 20 mg/l, so that’s twice the amount you’re planning on. Thereafter, a 10mg/l dosage every 7 – 10 days for the next three treatments. (total of 4 treatments) Of course, during treatment, any phosphate removing product (CP will kill-off any algae) should be discontinued, as should activated carbon and/or ozone and skimming/UV. Once treatments are concluded, those products/devices and/or Poly-Filters can be used as needed.

As for water changes, a small change (20 gallons in your size aqu.) between each additional treatment is thought helpful, and also at the end of treatment. Otherwise, CP will be removed by the media mentioned above.

Keep me informed, and what city do you live in, as I’m tracking all CP data.
Hope this helps,
Bob

I am in Las Vegas, Nevada.

I have already quarantined my coral and all of the snails and crabs that I could catch. Surely, there is quite a bit more in the rock and sand. I am hoping that I will not have a toxic ammonia issue based on the dye off.

The method you are referring to in the book is about using the CP in food, right? If so, I did consider this but decided to treat the entire tank. I am actually treating 2 tanks, the 300G and a 60G that was the initial breeding ground. The 60 gallon tank is fallow, as well. (I moved a Powder Blue Tang from the 60 to the 300 and a week later lost my Volitans Lion and Porcupine Puffer to ich from the 60G Tank. Then, surprise, it showed up fierce in the 300 Gallon tank).

I have treated using the 10mg/l dose recommended in the book and was under the impression that this was the best method. Based on your suggestion below, would you recommend that I purchase more and increase the dose? Does your current data indicate that I will have issues with die-off from my live rock and sand?

Hi Kevin,
Lost Wages! You’re right next door to me here in Tucson. Post away, as helping others is what I’m about! What’s your blog?

Yes, the treat food method does work as on-going data has shown, but in some ways its more time consuming to apply.

And yes, following data has shown its best to up the initial treatment level.

Also, crustaceans don’t seem to be effected by CP, nor does the bacteria in the sandbed. That’s why its so much better than copper.

If more CP is needed, try:
Fishman Chemicals
David Fishman, president
215 Ojibway Ave.
Tavernier, FL 33070
ph: (305) 852-6121
fax: (305) 852-6272

David’s email:
sales@fishchemicals.com

Website:
www.fishchemical.com

He only sells wholesale, so maybe a local shop will have to purchase it for you.
Hope this helps,
Bob

As such, I have changed course and will be following these suggestions. More to come!